Published in Los Baños Times 2008’s magazine, In-Focus.
“When I came here in 1939, I was so fascinated by the beauty and splendour of Los Baños that during that moment of my life, I prayed to the Lord, dito na sana ako mabuhay buong buhay ko (I wish to live here for the rest of my life). Thanks to Him, that dream was fulfilled,”said Dr. Celestino Habito, who has been in Los Baños for almost 68 years.
Los Baños is a very hospitable town that tourists, environmentalists, academicians, and entrepreneurs alike take pride of. Its spectacular sceneries and landscapes have attracted thousands of people. Although Los Baños lies at the foot of Mount Makiling and is cradled by Laguna de Bay, it is officially considered as a first class urban munic ip a lit y.
The present day Los Baños is much more different than it was a hundred years ago or even more. The dense forests, thick canopies, tall grasses, damp mountain paths, and dusty caretela (farm cart) trails then are now buildings, roads, restaurants, subdivisions, and modern commercial establishments. Let us take a look at how our humble town went through the changes that affected the way of life of the Los Baños citizens.
Spanish Bath Tubs
According to the records of the municipal office of Los Baños, the town was first known as Mainit, and was j ust considered as a small barrio of Bay. It was called Mainit because of the steaming natural hot springs all over the place, which were said to have healing powers. The Franciscans discovered the place and the wonders of the hot springs in 1589. They cleared and cleaned the vicinity and built a rest house made up of rattan and nipa on the prairie of Dampalit, Brgy. Lalakay. That time, a Franciscan friar named Pedro Bautista decided to make it a public bath site and called it Los Baños, which means “bathing places” in Spanish. From then on, Los Baños became popular. People from other places came to experience the touted therapeutic effects of the natural hot springs, and some of them decided to settle in Los Baños. In 1615, Los Baños officially became a town separate fromBay.
In 1671, the friars constructed the Immaculate Concepcion Church which was raised to ground in 1727. It was soon rebuilt in 1815. It sustained major damages after an earthquake in 1863. It was immediately renovated, and
it still stands at Brgy. Timugan beside Liceo de Los Baños. Later on, in 1892, a palace for the governor-general in Los Baños was fully constructed at Brgy. Bambang. It is now the place where Liceo de Los Baños stands.
American Defense and Education
When the Americans took over the country in 1901, much of their efforts in Los Baños have put the town‟s natural and human resources to good use. These efforts resulted in the physical and economic developments that Los Baños had during the early part of the American occupation.
In 1903, American President Theodore Roosevelt declared the establishment of Camp Eldridge in Los Baños, a US army camp that covered Barangays Lalakay, Timugan, and Bambang. Based on the records of the municipal office, there was more life and activity in Los Baños after the establishment of the camp. Hotels and resorts appeared in the poblacion (town center) leading to the establishment of restaurants and dancing halls. One notable building during that time was the McVean Hotel and a softdrink plant called Isuan.
Employment also soared at that time. Residents worked in establishments that provided products and services to the American soldiers stationed at Camp Eldridge.
The growth of businesses has tremendously changed Los Baños from a sleepy little town to a fast developingmunicipality. However, what could perhaps be the greatest “contribution” of Americans to Los Baños was theestablishment of the University of the Philippines College of Agriculture (UPCA) in 1909, which decades later would be known as the University of the Philippines Los Baños (UPLB).
According to the Centennial Panorama by Dr. Fernando Bernardo, Edwin Copeland founded that first agricultural school in the country. There were only 12 students studying only in modest borrowed tents se t up inside Camp Eldridge. Later on, it was permanently transferred to a vast area at the foot of Mount Makiling. When forestry was included in the curriculum in 1910, the university included Forestry in its name and extended the campus to the lower slopes of Mount Makiling.
From 1909 to late 1930‟s, school buildings in UPLB were constructed to accommodate the growing number of students and the widening of academic programs. In and out of the campus, elementary and secondary schools were also established. In 1921, Lopez Elementary School was constructed, followed by UP Rural High School in 1927. In 1932, Maquiling School Inc. was instituted by faculty members of the UPCA for the education of their children.
According to the Socio-Economic and Physical Profile (SEPP) 2005 of the municipal office, Los Baños developed simultaneously with the growth of UPLB. Enrolment at the university grew steadily, and many people from other places migrated into the town. The university was also reinforcing its reputation as a first learning institution. From then on, Los Baños was known to carry the name of the university. Transportation during the early decades of American occupation was in the form of caretelas and kalesas (horse carts) on land and Yangco boats through Laguna de Bay‟s waters. Later on, railways were constructed and trains were used to travel to far places like Manila. Migrants and students coming to Los Baños travelled through these vehicles.
According to Dr. Habito, when he came here in 1939 from Lucena City, there were only few houses along the pathways (no roads yet), and there were most likely no sources of pollution. The UP campus alone was “very, very clean, orderly, and organized.”
Likewise, former councilor Mrs. Sofie Tidon, a native of Los Baños for 81 years, said, “That time, Los Baños was very peaceful and very clean, walang mga garbage na nakabunton, walang mga asong gumagala. Kokonti ang mga migrants. Life was very simple (There were no garbage stacked, no dogs astray. There were a few migrants.)”
Japanese Bombs and Bayonets
Mrs. Tidon has also experienced the World War II in Los Baños. She related that in December 1941, the Los
Baños railway station was bombed. A train filled with evacuees from Manila was bombed, which killed hundreds of people. In January 1942, Japanese soldiers started to occupy the country. Garrisons and camps were set up. That same year, they established an internment camp for prisoners of war and civilians of different nationalities at the grounds of UPCA campus.
At first, the Japanese soldiers were reaching out to people –walking around town, talking to them, but when they learned about the return of Gen. Douglas MacArthur, they became wild and brutal, especially to the foreigners and natives who were interned at the UP campus. During that time, the local government could not do anything. The government officials ran away and hid, and the whole Los Baños was in trouble. People were harassed, murdered, and abused. They suffered from fear, hunger, sadness, and disease.
Later on, in 1945, US-Filipino forces raided the internment camp set up in UPCA campus and rescued 2,147 military and civilian internees,foreigners, and Filipinos. According to Mrs. Tidon, having seen the raid from the mountains, there were US army airborne paratroopers landing, amphibian tanks from the Laguna de Bay coming from Brgy. Mayondon, and Filipino guerrilla forces guiding the American soldiers‟ entry to the campus. All of the 2,147 internees were safely rescued, but they left Los Baños unguarded, helpless, and damaged.
After that rescue, Los Baños was in total devastation. The Japanese soldiers suddenly appeared. They murdered many residents and burned down buildings, houses, bridges, and other structures in and outside the UP campus. According to the Centennial Panorama, the American army came back to Los Baños only after two months to finally liberate it.
Recovery and Reconstruction
After the liberation, Los Baños underwent restorations in terms of its physical environment and economy, just the same as the whole country did. Houses, buildings, bridges, roads, and other structures damaged during the war were rebuilt. People were mostly concerned about bringing back their livelihoods and living a normal life despite the losses and sorrow.
The war greatly devastated the UP College of Agriculture and School of Forestry. Almost all of the buildings were destroyed and burned down except the Baker Hall and the Agricultural Engineering building. Based on the Centennial Panorama, the release of the Philippine-US War Damage Funds to the university in 1947 made possible the reconstruction of academic and research buildings, the infirmary, student dormitories, and bungalows.
From 1945 to late 1950‟s, Los Baños was recuperating from the wounds that the war brought about. Its people, as well, were recovering from the loss of the properties they had worked for and more importantly, the lives of their loved ones. Little by little, Los Baños was progressing.
According to Mrs. Tidon, there were many jobs for Los Baños residents after the liberation. Livelihoods were back to normal, and money was not really a problem. The Americans came back to restore stability.
Additionally, despite the casualties that the war caused, there were more people in town because of continuous migration of people from other provinces. One reason is the flourishing UPCA. More students enrolled in the university, and more employees were needed. UPCA became UPLB. The success of the university attracted local, regional, national, and international institutions and organizations. Most of these were development institutions.
In 1962, the International Rice Research Institute (IRRI) was inaugurated and established, the same year with the foundation of the Dairy Training and Research Institute (DTRI). Southeast As ian Regional Center for Graduate Study and Research in Agriculture (SEARCA) was instituted in 1966, followed by the Philippine Council for Agriculture, Forestry and Natural Resources Research and Development (PCARRD) in 1972.
Later on the National Arts Center of the Philippines was established in 1977 together with the Philippine High School for the Arts (PHSA). All of these institutions contributed to the development of the country and primarily of Los Baños.
Urban Los Baños
According to Dr. Fernando Bernardo, the establishment of various institutions and organizations in Los Baños led to the birth and growth of large and small commercial establishments in the surrounding areas. The growth was centralized in Brgy. Batong Malake, which housed the many institutions and organizations, instead of the town center which is located in Brgy. Baybayin and Brgy. Bambang. At present, there are four urban barangays in Los Baños, namely: Timugan, Baybayin, San Antonio, and Batong Malake.
According to the SEPP 2005 Filipinos and foreigners working in these institutions brought their families here and decided to settle permanently. This, according to the report, made Los Baños, an international community, bringing developments in business, commerce, and civic works.
From 1970‟s to present, commercial establishments as well as residential estates in Los Baños continued to rise in response to the growing population. A few establishments stayed through time, while some did not. Some agricultural lands were converted to subdivisions and commercial buildings.
As said by Mr. Lenard Lopez, son of the owner of Lopez Village, and a descendant of ex-Mayor Silvio Lopez, sugarcane plantations along Lopez Avenue were then converted to residential lots and commercial establishments –stores in front, houses at the back or on the second floor.
According to Mrs. Merlita Lansin, a native of Los Baños for 48 years, there were already many recreational business establishments during the 1970‟s. There were famous theater houses, one located in Junction called Chit Theater (now the building across Batong Malake Public Market), and another was the Agrix Cinemas (now an old structure often renovated for different purposes). Those were the most notable establishments while others were only small stores and general merchandise shops with houses at the back.
In the 1980‟s, according to Mr. Lopez, the most notable establishment was the arcade beside the UP gate, now known as Vega Arcade. He recalled that there were a few stores there, usually selling foods, and an ice cream parlor, which was a fad during that time. The present Star Commercial and a part of Los Baños Square was Eva Lanes Bowling Alley. It was then vacated after it operated for only a few years.
“Wala pang McDonald‟s o Jollibee nung panahon namin. Joke nga no‟n na magkaron ng Jollibee sa Los Baños. Parang joke na, „kain tayo sa Jollibee!‟ Pagkagraduate namen, „di na joke „yon. Totoo na ngang may fast food diyan.” (There were no McDonald‟s or Jollibee then. It was even a joke to have a Jollibee in Los Baños during our time. The joke was like, „let‟s eat at Jollibee!‟ After we graduated, it was no longer a joke. There was already a fast food chain there.),” said Mr. Lopez.
Fast food chains started to rise in Los Baños in the 1990‟s. Jollibee at the corner of the national highway and Lopez Avenue in Junction was a gas station before. Wendy‟s existed in Junction exactly at the present location of Bodega ng Bayan. There was also a Shakey‟s restaurant near the Batong Malake Public Market along the national highway. Los Baños continues to grow and develop. At present, there are Robinsons Town Mall, Olivarez Plaza, and Vega Center located at the town. There are already banks, hotels, resorts, coffee shops, internet cafés, restaurants, and bars.
According to the Socio-Economic and Physical Profile 2006, the town now has 44 schools, 40 subdivisions, 33 resorts, 11 food chains, and 17 banks. In addition, with its natural wonders and role as a center for science and technology, Los Baños was declared Special Science and Nature City in 2000 through Presidential Proclamation No. 349.
The Los Baños Spirit
One major factor that caused the urbanization of Los Baños is its population. As the growth of UPLB and other
institutions stabilized the town‟s economy, it also made a significant increase in the town‟s population. Havingexperienced the beauty of Los Baños, many people were attracted and decided to reside here.
Just like other municipalities, Los Baños‟ population grew as time passed by. However, there is a significant growth in the population of Los Baños from 1948 to 2000. From 10,954 in 1948, it doubled to 21,519 in 1960 and increased more than 10,000 every decade. This period was the height of the physical growth of Los Baños. Different institutions were established, and businesses boomed. Subdivisions were developed, and people from different places came to settle. Hence, the growth of population and the developments in the physical characteristics of Los Baños took place simultaneously.
This growth in population resulted to negative effects on the whole community of Los Baños on the aspect of sustainable environment and social unity.
The cleanliness and orderliness of Los Baños in the early decades of the 1900‟s as emphasized by Dr. Habito and Mrs. Tidon are said to be gone now. In addition, one reason pointed out by Dr. Bernardo was the lack of discipline among the younger generations. “They carelessly throw garbage anywhere they want. Tapon doon, tapon dito. (Throw there, dump here.) The care and concern of the people for the town are now gone,” stressed Dr. Bernardo.
People in Los Baños today are way different than the native of Los Baños. “There‟s a great difference. People were obedient and disciplined. No influence of drugs. Wala pang mga local criminalities. Ngayon, dumadami na. Ngayon masyado nang polluted. Mataas ang rate ng cases ng cancer at asthma dito sa Los Baños. Dati kasi madaming mga puno. Ngayon, madaming pumuputol. At saka noon, Los Baños citizens were very hospitable and friendly. Pero nahaluan ng iba‟t ibang mga tao. (There were no local crimes. Now, they are increasing. It [the town] is already too polluted. Rates of cancer and asthma cases are high in Los Baños. Before, there were many trees. Now, there are many tree-cutters. Also, people in Los Baños before were very hospitable and friendly, but are mixed up with different kinds of people.),” said Mrs. Tidon.
Moreover, according to Dr. Bernardo, there was a so-called Los Baños spirit, which was a spirit of unity, enthusiasm, and pride. This was originally a concept of the students of UPCA, but it reached the other residents in Los Baños.
“Noong araw, merong kaming tinatawag na Los Baños spirit. Pagka may trabaho, tulungan kami. Meron kaming spirit ng pagkakaisa. Pagka kami eh nagpunta saMindanao or sa Visayas, kaming mga taga Los Baños, nagbabatian. (During that time, we have a so-called Los Baños spirit. When we have some work to do, we help one another. We have a spirit of unity. When we go to Mindanao or Visayas, we, people of Los Baños greet each other.),” related Dr. Bernardo.
They want that the Los Baños spirit be relived. Dr. Habito emotionally said, “I hope you could revive that Los Baños spirit. Everybody here, we felt like we belong to one family. We were so united. We were bound by a love for Los Baños.”
As said by Ms. Chrysalyn Gocatek, a Sociology instructor in UPLB, these changes in behavior of the Los Baños citizens can be the effects of many factors. These factors are media, primary groups (family), physical environment, and outside forces. She mentioned the effects of its population which is composed of people of different cultures brought about by migration. The distinct characteristics and values – unity, care for environment, and discipline – of the natives of Los Baños are easily wiped out because of these.
What Lies Ahead?
Despite the losing “town spirit” with more people living here, Los Baños continues to embrace those who opt to make it their home.
According to Councilor Ma. Luisa Wassmer, despite the limited income (almost 60 percent of the land area is
exempted from tax) that the municipal government is getting; it has been addressing the needs of the Los Baños citizens.
For instance, the municipal government is actively promoting tourism to increase job opportunities for the une mp lo yed.
Councilor Wassmer also mentioned of the efforts of the local government concerning the environment. Currently, there are community-driven projects in solid waste management, plastic disposal, and water availability monitoring.
As a special science and nature city, Los Baños is also striving harder to live up to the title.
Councilor Lourdes Principe said that Los Baños will always remain as “a host town for local and international research institutions and remarkably for UPLB, consistently producing the best academicians, scientists and authorities in agricultural research and development for countries in Southeast Asia and even worldwide.”
She predicted that there will be nosignificant and massive developments in the economy and commerce of Los Baños because of its limited land area for business. It will remain as a university zone and an academic community only accommodating goods and services for the needs of the constituents.
Likewise, Mrs. Lansin commented that Los Baños is already a developed community. “Okay na okay na ang Los Baños. May mga ospital, may mga ilaw sa kalsada, may mall, madaming paaralan. Marami paring mga puno. Wala nang kulang dito. Wala nang idedevelop pa. Magaling naman kase ang namumuno dito ngayon. (Los Baños is very much okay already. There are hospitals, lamplights in the streets, malls, and a lot of schools. There are still many trees. We do not lack anything anymore. There is nothing more to improve on because the local government is doing well.)”
However, Councilor Wassmer said that there are still problems. In response to them, she personally seeks the help of the community – the people of Los Baños as well as the different institutions and organizations within it – in all the undertakings of the municipality. She said that there should have a committed, wellorganized coordination among the local government, research and development institutions, schools, private individuals and corporations, religious organizations, and ordinary people for the progress and stability of Los Baños.
“World-class ang Los Baños..dahil sa hot springs, sa environment, sa mga tourist spots, historical sites at siyempre dahil sa UPLB. Pero mas sisikat pa „to kung magiging model community ito na lahat ng mga tao at lahat ng mga institusyon ay nagtutulungan at nagkakaisa para sa ikabubuti ng lahat. (Los Baños is a worldclass municipality because of hot springs, the environment, tourist spots, historical sites, and of course because of UPLB. But it would become more popular if it would be a model community wherein all the people and institutions work together as one for the good of all.), said Councilor Wassmer.
Grandeur Remains
Los Baños, even from the Spanish period until now, has been attracting thousands of people with its natural charm and exquisiteness. Because of this, it has undergone all the developments that made it into a place where people find solace and contentment.
Although there are problems brought about by population growth, Los Baños struggles to maintain its natural charm along with its transformation into a modern community. The town will continously maintain the majestic view of mount Makiling. Around it, local and foreign tourists will always hear the chirping birds and feel the warn embrace of its enviroment.
Los Baños will always be a Special Science and Nature City.